Tuesday, July 26, 2011

The Social Landscape

If you were in Port-au-Prince on a Saturday night with us, these are the people you might end up hanging out with:
Los Diplomaticos: From Argentina, Colombia, Brazil, Chile, Guatemala, Mexico. They have usually just graduated from school and are on their first post as Diplomats. The “hardship” of this post will guarantee that their next job will be in a place with working traffic lights…like Paris or New York. We speak Portu-nol together, or mostly the Brazilians integrate into the dominating Spanish conversation. Incredibly welcoming, nothing is ever planned in advance, the food is always good, the music is always loud.
The Irish: From one island to another. There are several NGOs, one telecommunications company, a security company - if you’re in Haiti you just can’t escape the Irish. And thank goodness for that. But unbelievably, there’s still no Irish Pub in town (though one is planned!) They are always up for a good time, I do not always understand what they say, but the little I understand is very funny! Can’t keep up with their beer drinking, but have learned to appreciate a hot cup of tea in +35C weather…
UN police: Some of the best parties we have been lucky enough to attend, were organized by groups of men in tight shorts (because they are usually held at gigantic compounds, and the party is always near the pool—and men from developing countries love their tight shorts). The man-woman ratio is about 10-1, the directions to the location are always terrible but you can find where you’re going by the dozens of white UN cars parked outside blocking the main road. Special mention for a party thrown by the Spanish SWAT team…ahhhh, lobster BBQ, and sangria buckets J
Library-goers: The Colony Club deserves its own separate entry. It is thanks to this library though that we have met a group of wonderful Haitian-Canadian/American couples that have been in Haiti for a long time. As in for the past 30 years. Oh, the things they have seen and lived! We see them almost every Friday, or every second Friday when there’s wine at the library J
Las Colombianas: During most of the winter we would end up as the same parties as a group of Colombian girls working for different organizations. Some of them had arrived right after the earthquake and had had to live in camps with up to 300 soldiers (and only 1 shower!). Beautiful, smart, multilingual…and a disappointment to the young men around them as most of them are here with their boyfriends.
Canadians: in times of Hockey play offs, crazy Canadian elections, maple syrup scarcity, or just plain homesickness, how lucky we are to be able to work, go to the library, search for a new restaurant, or just hang out and watch hockey with other Canadians. We love the familiar slang, similar complaints, trouble finding cheap tickets to Vancouver… and the niceness of them all.
Quebeckers: If Montreal seems a bit emptier these days it’s because half of their highly educated, well-travelled, perfectly bilingual youth have moved to Port-au-Prince! They are, seriously, everywhere. NGOs, UN, International Organizations, Consultant firms, private sector, government jobs…everywhere you turn there’s a Quebecois running a meeting (here a separate category from the Canadians, just as my previous co-worker would have it… Mr. V- I miss working with you!)
Free-lance journalists: A South African friend once told me that in real life, aid workers don’t live adventure-filled lives and move around on the back of pick-up trucks, but reporters do. Only journalists live like aid workers are portrayed in the movies. And it is true. While we move around in SUVs, and live in nice places, these guys are on their own. Nobody picks them up at the airport, they don’t receive security warnings. When there is a crisis and you can see fire from your rooftop, the NGO workers stay in their compounds, and lock our doors as instructed. The journalists see the fire, smile, grab their cameras, put on a helmet (or a bandana) and off they go. On foot, a moto-taxi, on the back of a pick-up truck, looking for a story, hoping for a good picture.
Jaded “citizens of the world”: Last but not least, the most interesting and less interested group. They are veterans, been on the road for so long they can’t remember if they were in Afghanistan or Sudan before coming here. Big titles, big money. They speak that heavy accented-English that you just can’t place, wear khaki trousers, haven’t shaved in a while, always tell crazy stories. It doesn’t matter where they were born, they don’t identify with any nationality, they could pack and move to another crisis right then and there. Nothing faces them anymore…And they make you fall in love in development work and wish you never end up like them all at the same time.
Unfortunately some of these people have already left Haiti, gone home, off to their next mission, learning new acronyms, meeting new friends in a new place…. It was an honour and a pleasure to have met you! Hope to spend another weekend night with you again someday :)

A blind date with the Citadelle


We did not know much about Cap Haitien, Haiti’s second largest city, when we booked our tickets. We also didn’t think much about which hotel to stay at, or the quality of the nearby beach. The point of the trip was to see the Citadelle, a Unesco World Heritage site located about 40 minutes from downtown Cap.

Graham was excited to see the fortress, draw-bridges, the more than 150 cannons (and the 50,000 cannon balls that are stacked nearby!). I was looking forward to a quiet walk up the hill among trees and beautiful views. A few of our friends had visited a couple of weeks earlier, and they described it as a sweet escape from dusty and crowded Port-au-Prince. “Go early so you can have it all to yourself” they said.

Our visit was of course not what we expected it. We visited on Easter Saturday which happens to be the day every single Haitian in the vicinity goes to visit the Citadelle. And they not only visit, they bring along pots of food to share with their many friends (some of them also brought their alcoholic drinks, and their loud stereos). And once they get to the Citadelle they sit there and hang out for hours.

Needless to say, it was not the quiet visit to a historic site to a historic site we had in mind! There were people all over the place, and by everywhere we mean every single spot you can think of. People were sitting on the cannons (and the cannon balls), in the windows, on the handrails, in every passage, and every corner. It was loud, and people were pushing us, and there were beer bottles everywhere.

Despite it all, it was very impressive with fantastic views in all directions. The fortress took the Haitians 15 years to be completed (1805-1820), and it was supposed to hold over 5,000 troops. The walls are 4 meter thick and 40 meters high, and the location was chosen to be able to defend the whole area from invading European troops (who never ended up coming).
Even though it wasn’t what we expected, we are glad we went, and will be recommending it to all our friends here, just don’t go over Easter weekend!

Monday, July 25, 2011

Visitors!!!- Part III



Apologies for the loooong recess... I changed jobs, and then we moved apartments. And then we moved again. Then we were very busy for some weeks, and lazy for some more. Then Graham left Haiti (as expected) - but that's another blog entry.

I would like to dedicate this post to a wonderful and beautiful friend who came to visit us in April. Much like with our previous visitors, her visit coincided with election results announcements. She also happened to be traveling through the US at the time when tornadoes closed dozens of airports. Her flight was canceled, her time in Haiti was cut in half. And then I decided to change jobs the week she arrived. In any other setting, that would have translated into more free time or less time restrictions. In Haiti, it meant we did not have access to cars when Graham was not around. So we were restricted to walking, visiting, eating and shopping within a two block radius from our apartment. Eventually we escaped Port-au-Prince for a couple of nights though and went to visit Cap Haitien in the north of the country.

She did not complain about the dodgy car that picked her up from her airport, the lack of AC at our place, the fact that her very expensive vacation was cut in half, or the countless mosquito bites. Then again, she didn't complain about visiting me in Montreal in -38C degree weather to help me celebrate my birthday a few years ago...

Thank you for being such a great friend, for calling from every corner of the world you've made it to in the last 10 years, and for always always being there.

With all my love,
Tania